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Yes. But I do not know much about that voodoo electricity stuff. It looks like the both have current on each end, except maybe I just shorted out the F3 Fuse- whatever that does

I have not replaced the dampers. And I will order some on Monday, but I would think it's unlikely that both the cyan and black dampers both failed when I removed and reinstalled the head

The Black/ Cyan head on my SP300V was printing fuzzy, (It's got the original heads and is over 6 years old) so as a last ditch effort I removed it and soaked it overnight. I reinstalled it, but now when I try and print black, the print is totally red only. Some info: I used a syringe to make...

a Gretsch steel resonator guitar hangs on the wall within reach at my desk. Echos beautifully in the shop when I need a break. Also trying to hit the garbage from 30 feet away is always worth trying. Usually just makes a mess. Working on this old classic, but it may be beyond my talent range. Or...

Thanks for such a detailed description. I am at this exact crossroads right now and this helps. Nice looking shop as well!

I would have it so the new rolls of material only had an inch of tape to hold down the loose end and not have it wrapped around the entire roll three times. It only wastes a bit but it adds up over years of buying material. ..Oh and would it be hard to include a shot of Tequila inside the cores?

Looks like a sea can. I've done several for the Canadian Cross. You can see them on my FB Page- North Shore Signs & Graphics- Photos. You will see that from an angle the lettering gets distorted as mentioned. But the radius of those are easily manageable. The weld every few feet are the only...

Square X 1000.

Great ads are effective and entertaining. That one was for sure...so is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUG9qYTJMsI

I agree with most of the advice here. But I also like the idea. The car needs to be separated from the background more. Maybe even a boring done-to-death tear in the sheet metal around the car would look ok. Car guys eat that stuff up. That and diamond plate

Oracal 651 if it's white or black and doesn't need more than 5 years. Oracal 751 if you never want to worry about any issues for 7 plus years

I'll try those suggestions. Thanks for the input everyone!

I'm having trouble getting my Roland Versacamm to print bright orange. I'm trying to match Oracal 751 Pastel Orange. I pull it from the library, but it is darker than the cast vinyl colour- more than should be expected than any limitation the printer should have. I feel like this wasn't a...

Copperplate may be close to start

http://www.grizzly.com/products/52-Sheet-Metal-Shear/G5772

I have NOT tried cutting anything other than Dibond and Coro. As far as speed goes, I think both would be the same.

I bought the Grizzly Tools 52" Stomp Shear. It works great on dibond and coro, but I was at a friends printing shop last week and they have one of those flat steel-track cutters that uses regular razor blades. We ran it along a sheet of dibond two times and just snapped the edge clean. I wish I...

You'd have to look at the specs of the vinyl to determine that. The supplier should be able to recommend the proper lam.

Thanks for such a great detailed description. I'm in the exact same boat. Even wired my new shop for the 220 outlets. But scared to make the transition. I guess keeping the old Roland and just phasing out slowly is the best bet for any new printer I may buy. But I's probably keep the old one as...

Engineering grade refers to the reflectivity only. Not the material. I know of Engineer Grade, Hi-Intensity, & Diamond Prismatic Florescent- In that order from low to high- At least that's what it was in Canada when I used to sell construction products including signs.