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in a pinch, i'd just order the ones with the 5/16" thread on mbs and drill it out with a with a 7/32" or 15/64" bit (ican'trememberwhichoffhand) and hand-tap it with a 1/4" bottom-tap. you shouldn't need a press, but it would be ideal to use if you had one.

heat press printable media would be ideal, as regular vinyl doesn't stick too well to awning fabric over time. ...but you should look to liquid laminate it with something that boasts UV protection like ClearShield. roll it on, let it dry, then contour cut & apply. ezpz

just did a project where we replaced all the neon in a set of 8ft tall letters in Milwaukee with Sloan FlexiBrite LED tubes. the silicone encasing has a hollow-channel at the rounded-top that helps diffuse the light diodes, lights up super clean & bright with zero "christmas-tree" effect.

currently running the same mimaki cgfx we bought 15 years ago.... alongside the exact same make/model we bought from a bankrupcy auction of a nearby sign company a few years later. both still run perfectly, daily use (anywhere between 30-100yds of vinyl a week) & pretty much zero maintenance...

it was $6k to paint it....chances are, the owners still haven't received the daily fines they'll keep running the tab on until it is covered/removed. I was once fined $100/day for replacing a verizon wireless graphic with a pizza place graphic on their illuminated awning because I didn't pull a...

the banding in their print leads me to believe the color output was correct, but it was lacking much of the yellow channel...thus making orange print red.

the artifacts stagger between the colors, and less-so in the black..... unfamiliar with that printer, but it could be a bidirectional alignment issue?

just do what most vinyl mfg's do .... boast a 10yr warranty, with an asterisk noted in the fine print: that, "any horizontal surface & any basically surface in california/arizona/etc. cuts the warranty in half"

in theory, it could work. the HP's have double-sided printing auto-alignments for printing banners, should be able to do it on backing paper. However, i'd wait until after you print & laminate the face to avoid contamination.

curious if you've found anything..... as p99 has always been my solution, or applying a satin/matte overlaminate, but you'll have that slightly chalky light-matte cloudiness when viewing through the acrylic. I see no resources for polarized acrylic sheets, just small applications like...

+1 right to left.... reason being, more letters have their "opening" on the right-side. i also do a combination of up/down "light tugging" as I travel, pulling more vertical than horizontal so that the loose-bits don't drape-onto the rest of the vinyl. if multiple lines of copy on a single...

simple math: $75/hr x2ppl = $150/hr. seems "pricey" but the same work that needs completion is done in less than half the time if you were to send 1 employee.

are these warning labels for exploding poop-boxes to thwart package thieves? i mean, they're already trespassing & stealing.....so you shouldn't be liable if you literally put a warning label on the poop box too m'right?

keep the printheads where they are, isolate where the issue comes from by swapping ribbon cables to see if the issue follows. if the issue stays with the printhead, then its the head. if the band continues through another channel then you know the issue is above the printhead (creased ribbon...

wow, zombie thread. question was answered above, and simple math could be the solution, but I guess posting the same question 5+ years later might yield different results.....

oh wow, upon further research this is a known issue..... vinyl for low surface energy (LSE) plastics is recommended, such as Arlon 8000.

not staying down? what surface are you applying to? Arlon DPF6000XRP is my substitute, but if 180 isn't sticking to it then neither with any similiar media.

AFGA was just showcasing their new UV printer that has ability to do lenticular prints in one-go by layering colors & clear. super cool. If only I had $200k for a new toy! last time I researched lenticular prints, I landed on Midwest Lenticular but i'm sure there's plenty of options closer...

your CAD software should be able to export to dxf. i was just pisting the settings my enroute exports to

should be an option when you export to dxf legacy format: exporting from enroute, i save as dxf-legacy with options checked: contours-only & polylines & polyline mesh & inches & sort contours & clockwise.