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i use a light table, but should be able to do w/o one: put your letter face-down on table with pattern face-down on top of it shift til letter matches drawn letter shape, use finger to feel where the hole is and a pencil to punch-thru the paper into the hole. repeat for all letters, then flip...

looks like an ink supply issue to me. printhead looks like it wants to fire a perfect pattern, but there's not enough ink flow onto the printhead to allow it. either your ink pump isn't pulling as it should, or your capping station isn't making proper contact with the head, or you have a broken...

i like your line of diagnosis. exactly what I would have done, including swapping dying head onto yellow channel to reduce noticeable ghosting. ultimately, i think you need a new printhead. its a hard pill to swallow, but wasted time&material hoping to limp-by on a dying printhead could eat...

pics or it never happened :) ----------------------- just diagnose from the ground-up: first on the list, have you considered the ink pump? the plastic lines wear-out over time, crack, and eventually stop pumping while also allowing waste ink to simply drain down into its compartment within...

well played. warranty doesn't cover nonsense service calls.

i use phototex for parade "magnets". never an issue, and clients LOVE how little effort it is to install/remove them after a day or so of advertisement. ...and they can be rolled-up on themselves and stored for re-use, if desired. I just inform the client that they will hold water/moisture on...

definitely not the vinyl, been printing on arlon 6000 for years now without issue. great substitute for the much more expensive 3M 180. if static can be ruled-out, by confirming that it is only your black ink that is overspraying, then it is an issue with the way you're laying ink. huge fan...

I have the same issue when printing on clear/reflective/metallic vinyl. the sensor was designed to register using a white/opaque non-reflective surface. ...so just give it one my trick has always been to add 2" squares of masking tape or vinyl over the marks, and redraw them with a pen add'n...

ya, i get that while applying frosted vinyl with both rapidtac&soapy water. Couldn't tell you what it is, I just assumed that some of the adhesive broke-down with the water to create a "froth" that doesn't want to move as easily as the fluid itself. I've found that working the graphic with...

updating thread for you font-heroes: none of the fonts I could find matched close enough to work for this project, so I ended up just redrawing in its entirety. Pabst brewing has 100 new letters coming their-way, along with a 100 year-old set that we reconditioned as well! news article here...

3 potentials: 1) crap on your printhead 2)bad alignment 3) dirty encoder strip/sensor. 1) dirty printheads might not be the case, as you've recently installed it and most operators will clean their printheads prior to diagnosing further.... buuut never hurts to clean it again anyways. gunk...

small stuff never wants to sit still on backing paper... for small vinyl lettering, I'll cut & weed out the centers only, apply to surface & THEN weed out the negative around the lettering. EZPZ p.s. get a sharper blade & dial-down your speed.

fisheyes, for sure. old/economy media meets oversaturated ink level profile.

https://catalog.provehicleoutlines.com/files/PVO_Square_Footage_List_2013.pdf

you need to either make your own profile, which is easy on that machine. or download the profile provided by the manufacturer. They had one for Onyx, hp26500, which is what I use. or you can just trial/error setting CMYK%'s manually and run with it, but that's a headache if you have to do it...

cast acrylic can't really go wrong between brands, i'd imagine. I have also used clear .5" Lexan polycarbonate with success, but 99% of the time it's acrylic. I mainly leave brand selection up to whomever can supply relatively local, and beats me up on price the least.

does the cold air gun work well on thicker aluminum, like .5-1"? tempted to add one, regardless, to supplement my existing setup. more cold-air could only help, right? i've had acceptable cuts with just compressor air for .040, .063, .090 but if I'm not adding lubricant/coolant on 1/8"...

is anyone using another economically-friendly metal-cutting coolant for their CNC machines I should consider? I'm currently paying approx. $100/gal from supplier for Trico/TriCool MD-1 vegetable oil-based coolant for the sprayer on our CNC router. Their $80/gallon synthetic option is too watery...

LOVE my felt squeege "blocks". i just damp it with soapy water and not a scratch on my vinyl, unless I'm lazy and allow it to get covered with dust/crap from setting it on the floor & rubbing those particles all-over the wrap. +1 to it applying my wraps better after becoming "swollen". i'll...

lexel vs. silicone rubber, in this case, doesn't really matter when paired with vhb tape. lexel is stronger, silicone is cheaper. VHB will hold it up just fine on its own, but paired with a flexible adhesive/caulk just makes it that much better & long-lasting.