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As a tech I have seen my fair share of service contracts.The best service contracts will have regular maintenance built in. I wouldn't recommend purchasing one if it doesn't include at least a 6 month checkup and cleaning. I don't understand why companies don't offer this type of service...
I was always taught that a design should convey the message as quickly as possible without clutter. With a website all you need to know is if it is a website, which the ".com" tells you already so the www is redundant useless information that clutters the design.
I know I sound like a broken record when I say this but white ink almost never works out for people. It costs more and slows the machine down but more importantly is no one ever uses it as much as they think they are going to and it clogs the head and you just wasted a bunch of time and money...
There is a little lever on the right side of the print head carriage and if it gets pushed in it will give you this error. It may just be stuck in the jammed position.
The machine is a newer model first of all and the print head in the SureColor is the latest and greatest technology whereas the GS6000 is using the old style heads. As stated above, the main difference is that Epson designed and manufactured the SureColor series from scratch. The GS6000 was...
If you right click on the software icon and then go to properties, you can find the compatibility options. I usually go with Windows XP Service Pack 3 and then check the Run As Administrator box. Save and then re-open.
Not by a long shot. The SureColor is definitely the winner in that competition. The GS6000 was an Epson printer that was manufactured by Mutoh. The SureColor is the first fully Epson designed and manufactured solvent based printer. Because of this, the SureColor uses the latest Epson print heads...
Yeah unfortunately the error is +/- 0.3%. Does your machine have the feed and take-up systems? If it does, it should be more accurate. Also, there is something called an encoder disc that affects the print feed. I don't know where it is on that machine but it might be behind the left side cover...
There is definitely a margin of error when it comes to print length but these days the manufacturers aren't releasing that spec for some reason. So for an 8' print you should expect to be off by about 1/8" - 1/4" depending on environmental factors and how stretchy the material is etc. The longer...
CMYK recipes do not translate well between one person to another. Think of it this way. You have a recipe for brownies. Every brownie recipe is pretty close in which ingredients are used and how long to cook. But what if you are using a wood stove to cook them? Or a convection oven? What about...
The SP series is an oldie but a goodie. $3k for all of that is a good deal. The worst case scenario you are looking at around $1500 to refurbish. Best case scenario the heads just need to be soaked and maybe flushed. It's going to be much slower than the modern version of these printers but it's...
Whenever I see this issue my first thought is that the computer is going to sleep during the print. Make sure your sleep settings are turned off. Other than that, it would be a network hardware issue most likely.
That is one machine I still have yet to work on. I can't help too much but TH usually means thermistor which is a sensor that detects temperature. I am assuming the air heater on the left is either not heating properly or the thermistor isn't reading the temp properly.
If the fuse on the main board was bad and you switched the cables, yes the black and cyan head should be the only head that fires. I have been experimenting with recovering head that fry like this but have had no luck yet. Unfortunately, it sounds like you are out of luck.
In these cases the first thing to do is confirm that ink is flowing through the head. Cap the heads and then disconnect the cap top tube from the y connector and pull on that tube with a syringe. Ink should flow into the syringe almost immediately. If you get a ton of suction but no ink, you...
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