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build a blanket fort in the dining room and call it a day

well i will print several jobs and then just roll them up as they come out of the machine. but i will print several print cut jobs at a time them the non cut jobs and will cut them apart in between them. when i run full wrap panels i may cut those apart or just roll them up to cut later.

i always let mine hang over on one side. its easiest for me to trim one side than it is the other. here is how i have my lamination station set up

there are a few programs that are the "standard" i prefer my onyx i have used flexi, onyx, wasatch. there are a list of tools we can use to achieve the same end product. the trick is finding the combination of tools that works for you. i would never leave myself with only one option. your in a...

the over hang material. i shave it off as its coming out of the laminator its easy to deal with. when i am doing a full roll it is a pain in my bottom to deal with afterwards so trim it as it comes out. done. plus the over hang if not trimmed off messes with it going through the cutter. i always...

i have seen this problem many times. not really sure what the real answer is. my personal thoughts is its the break down of the laminate adhesive and then the uv rays cooking that layer. i had to replace one sign because of this very reason and that was from a 3m material. off a solvant printer...

could be a few different issues. issue with the manifold. and a slight air leak into the ink line. where it draws ink back and then other ink into the other if your cap top is not draining you will have a pool of ink that will get into the head.

well gino, that didnt end the way i expected your story to end. i kind of figured you saw him at the farmers market and found the car in the parking lot and repo'ed the graphics

gino i use my good tooth. the rest are just for show.

can you hang plastic up for make shift walls and only heat inside the bubble?

yes your equipment prefers a certain temperature level. go above or below that and it will not preform as expected. not much different then when you get out of a warm pool and the cold air hits you.

that is a clear banding issue. one of your print heads are not firing correctly. do a few heavy cleanings and then run a printhead test print and upload that

best way.. do cut vinyl letters and manually curve it as you go use a wax pencil. trace a line that matches the curve and align your letters to that

i havent used your model, but i have the seal 54 base and i love it. since you dont have a backer paper holder i would use and old tube and use that to pull it off as your laminating if you can, that will give you a smooth tension

i am sure its hard to find or near impossible. its not something i have ever done so i can only go with what he says. and he is one of those old school guys with major health issues. but still swears by the leaded paint.

i believe you can get clear coat as a spray can. and just give it a light coat to seal it

ok i just talked about your project with one of my installers. he is an old school hand lettering painter. he still hand letters some vehicles from time to time. what he suggested is you do not have to sand the clear coat first, but doing so would make it last a little longer. he would suggest...

thats actually a pretty cool look. and fyi one of my favorite dark rums is called kracken if you can paint it using a computer program you can make it look like its hand done. i personally would put a water scape behind it and wrap the front fender. driver door window down and the back fender to...

oh thats fine just brainstorming ideas. i used to do printing for a book author that did her pictures in water colors and i had to print them so they looked hand done

it all boils down to what you want the finished look to be. do you have a way of putting your art in a digital format and having a shop print it for you. which will hold up better and look cleaner than anything else