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You want an 8oz-13oz scrim vinyl. Like bannertime said, the printable versions work with vinyl, but I would think you'd be paying a premium price. Any vinyl you can use on a sign is OK, but generally banners are temporary so a cheaper vinyl is OK. Also they are called grommets, not rivets.

That is going to be tough to find nowadays. You may want to try a "canvas" fabricator that does awnings, boat covers etc. But you have to be sure the material is compatible with vinyl lettering. They used to make a liquid clear coat to make non compatible vinyl banners work with vinyl. You...

Sign looks dirty, should be cleaned right before application. Looks like it didn't stick.

I learned the hard way. Some perf films are better for this than others. Our solution, though not as satisfactory as I would have liked, was to put really dark tint on the private side.

Hooks & Lattice is a very reputable supplier, so I would trust them to use the correct PVC for an exterior sign. And I would use at least 1/2" thick

I'd just go with your original idea and have webbing in the hems.

Single face sign? Screw from the back with some lexel for good measure. As has been said, best to leave unpainted when gluing.

Welcome! Where in Ireland are you? Can't help you with the Roland, but you should post the question in the section for Hardware/Rolands you'll get more response

"Should be obvious why cities have engineers - we get big winds here and all hell breaks loose with signs flying away and walls falling... since the majority of sign people seem to only be printing stickers, thank goodness for engineers and codes... My point was the city engineers don't actually...

I made one out of wood to display a piece of stained glass...inside. Don't know why anyone would build an exterior box like that. It looks like it was actually well done, so weird.

http://signcabinetsinc.com/

Personally I wouldn't want laminate on my wood table...I'd use a good furniture sealer/ wax to protect it.

Really hard to tell from photos, but the T looks like either a "fake" gold or even a printed gold effect. The A looks more like Signgold. But as has been said you need swatches from the various suppliers to compare. And those won't help with real gilding or printed fakes.

I am trying to see if my material cost seems right The OP never said they were figuring a selling price, just asking if they were correctly figuring the cost of the materials in a job like this.

Both, a real cost increase and an excuse. Like the fuel surcharge, everyone added it when fuel spiked, don't think anyone deleted it when fuel got back to normal.

Yea, that almost sounds like one of the fake engine turn golds...they are really bright and have reall hard lines in the spinning

Could be a different manufacturer or different karat if it's SignGold. Then there is the thing called UV degradation (ie: it faded).

There are towns around here that now require a stamp to screw a 1'x8' panel to a wall. Used to be the town engineer would look at the plans and either approve or recommend (ordet) a change. I think they are just covering their butts, but why have a town engineer at all?

Yep, what Gino said. Back when I would use the easy off method and never liked the results. Seems like people were more willing to compromise back then. I often ended up designing something that would hide the old lettering like adding a panel background

I'd look at some of the places that sell the stock ones and see what they measure.l You can then recreate that and get the proportion.