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Mimaki has come a long way with Rasterlink. All new equipment will come with Rasterlink 6 and depending on the ink set that you choose...you'll have access to hundreds of profiles. Since you mentioned 3rd party RIPs, that's probably the biggest downfall. Very slim on what's available for Onyx...

Absolutely you can use it as a stand alone cutter, stand alone printer, or the combination. If you're using FineCut, instead of clicking "Register Mark" to detect the marks, simply click "Plot" after you've measured the media width of course.

I believe this is the fix you're looking for. It's a CC issue, but this is the work around provided by Mimaki USA.

I'm looking at the brochure right now. They're advertised at ~10,000 hours on the LED's for the 6042 and ~5,0000 on the JFX200. Keep in mind that the bulbs are only on as the carriage passes over the ink, this helps extend the lamp life.

The flatter the better. The dots stay cohesive for roughly 3mm.....anything more than that and you'll get blurry images, satellites, and simply put...problems. Your issue looks like you also have a static issue. Do you have an ionizer on the machine?

I know it's an older post, but both machines in the JV400 series are really amazing. The latex now features orange, green, and white....uses dual 110 power and lower heater temps than the competition. The SUV uses dual CMYK, the UV lamp is simply a tanning bed bulb, and has crazy scratch and...

Are you changing percentages of primer you're using? I ran across an end user using 100% and it was killing his adhesion. I printed various samples with different percentages, and it turned out 0% actually worked the best. Bond-Aid by Pyramid works well to promote adhesion, but it's a wipe on...

Which substrates are you printing on? I have some that our Atlanta Headquarters created in house and can email them to you if you'd like. :thumb:

I like this. I recently visited a customer that was running 3rd party ink from Nazdar. Not to knock anyones product, but those two machines were the messiest JV33's I had ever seen. One was in their mind "decent" missing half of the Black nozzles and a 1/4 of the Cyan...they were printing a...

Can you post a pic of the alignment printout? That looks like deflection and not really an alignment issue. I only say that because the nozzles next to it look fine. Which machine is this?

Make sure the pump is spinning first. Also, Mimaki guidelines say to dump all the fluid every 6 months and the ratio is 2 parts water to 1 part antifreeze. The water will evaporate much quicker so you have to replace more water to keep the same ratio.

What size is your file? If you're in the GB's then your RIP may cause this as well. Think of it as data points stepping on themselves. The RIP tries to make a smooth curve, if there's too many data points it's still trying to make a smooth curve between the two points that are on top of...

Can we see a test draw? Are you printing that by selecting "Function>#test" and selecting 100% Cyan?

Is this on all media?

What is your ink set? If you have two white cartridges the RIP will see them as 1 white and 1 special color. When in "print condition" select the special colorset as "WS", that'll mean white and special. Then go to the "Color Edit" tab and change the Special Color Comp to: Special - Color, check...

If you're using a profile that has "WHITE" or "SPECIAL COLOR" it's going to print white where any white pixels are. Make sure this isn't the case, by default you're printing on bright white so it would ignore the white in your images. I'm assuming you have been provided with a copy of...

Did you ever resolve this? This could be a few things....from lack of water/antifreeze, the wrong mix of either, water pump going out, and even the flow being backwards or clogged.

I'm getting this "error" on first bootup on one of my JV33's. After a few seconds displaying "HEAD-1. EEPROM CHECK P2.10H2.20" it cycles through the cartridges and goes into local just like normal. No big deal since it does boot up eventually, but the first day it did this it didn't boot up at...

Actually just flushed and converted to ditch the white. I never used it to justify the problems I had. White ink clogged nozzles, white ink dripped down the ribbon cable and fried the head (titanium dioxide fried the head instantly, had it been any other color the printer would've entered safety...

Wouldn't by chance have your RIP set to "Manual Input" instead of "Auto Detect" for the Media Size would you?