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just got some of the mactac bubble free stuff and it works/looks great but it's not cheap by any means. customer complained about the regular clear vinyl so we gave them the option and the price and they went for it.
i think the vinyl seam will be less noticeable then the aluminum seam but either way i don't think it matters since the last guy did it in two pieces of aluminum and the landlord had no problems
with it. the main thing is that the building directory is clear and noticeable.
anyone have a source for 6ft wide white aluminum?
replacing an existing sign for our industrial complex and the last guy did the sign in two pieces. trying to get it in in one shot if possible.
i found some satin finish/anodized aluminum 6ft from harbor sales but i would have to mount white...
i really don't know much either , nor did i get much input other then supplying the pics from my installs but truthfully i didn't have a whole lot of time to spare so the owner and my boss pretty much handled it. it's pretty easy to navigate and pretty much tells you everything that we do so...
i will say that static cling always prints best on our uv printer as apposed to our eco-sol printers but we use slovex static cling. i get it from fellers and it prints fine
try avery hi-tack vinyl. i have gotten 15" rolls that are punched but only comes black or white that i know of. you can print on the white and laminate. the arlon pdf8000 brick vinyl might hold up better but doesn't come 15" punched (that stuff sticks to anything)
that's as good as it will get. and if you are digitally printing it and your customer wants and exact match just don't even bother. i think you can get close enough for what this needs to be. just the wear and fade from the weather alone will cause you not to be able to match it exactly. unless...
i have a couple of companies that i letter their fleets and this time of year i encounter a lot of dead bugs to clean off the trucks. usually some denatured alcohol and goof off do the trick but i have had a few stubborn carcasses i can't remove without scrapping. any tips/tricks or a magic...
we have a slitter like this (not exact but similar) it has multiple blades and the depth is adjustable then we put our silk screened sheets through and it slits the backs on the entire sheet of decals and then we die cut them. unfortunately ours is so old not sure where you would even find one...
replace the capping station, check the damper,possibly replace that also and do a head soak. (like already suggested) also you might need to just run some cleaning fluid through the system with a cleaning cartridge instead of with the ink in there while doing the powerful cleaning. just to clean...
check out a material called G-floor graphics. supposed to be for floor graphics but could also be used for counter top graphics as well. i have used it for both. not cheap but its a good looking product.
another route we have gone is we print a lot of sub-printed overlays so we have textured...
over the years i have heard quite a few people express their unhappiness with fellers but we have been buying from them for about 15 years and overall always had good service. they have a location that is about 20min from where we are now and sometimes i get orders same day. i have had returns...
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