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Thanks, I'll have to check more closely - but I always do select roll, as we've never used sheets to plot from, ordinarily.

Hi Folks, This should be an easy fix, but I've been a Roland plotter used for 20 years, and understand them. We bought a lovely Mimaki CG-130 FX II a few months ago, and it came with Finecut (v8, I think), which I installed and got it going. It does a terrific job of plotting most things, BUT...

Heat transferred stuff I find horrible to wear- clammy and unbreathable. Much stuff I've been given was not pressed on well either.

That's far too wasteful of acrylic, (or other substrate) compared with using cardboard, for instance.

I used to do the vinyl backer - tiresome, and can affect the background if not well-prepared, so I changed to cnc- routing a spacing template - also tiresome, so i changed to plotting the text with a 2mm inline, and applying that, then mounting letters over it. That was ok, but these days I...

If you have used PG to prepare and create a file, then save it as a BMP (eng) from P'grave. Then, you need only IMPORT the BMP straight into RDW, set the speed, lineshift & power, and engrave from there. No need for corel or dxf steps. We do it this way all the time. Alternately AI works well...

If it is like many foundries, there will be drawers of assorted typestyle sizes - but usually 1 or 2 typestyles - a plain block and a bolder one like this. When a plaque is needed they take the letters needed out, and nail them to the backboard, then form the green-sand mould from that. This has...

If you'd try the so-called 'expensive' Onsrud cutters, instead of cheap chinese ebay ones, for the same purpose, you might find it is a solution... A quality tool does make a huge difference! you can hold the two and no see the difference, but use them, and the difference is night and day.

Why do you want swarf on anythnig? Last time we used a downcut cutter, everything cut cleanly with no edge fluff on any parts-inside or outside- and we went through 8 sheets of plywood like that.

What did they send instead?

as above... and the aluminium we call sail track.

Brian, a laser doesn't have heads to clog up, and parts are relatively generically swappable. (we have 2 chinese & one USA laser) A printer is a different beast altogether. UV is different again, and flat beds, also.

Most signwriters stick with established brands of certain machinery, for many reasons- and reliability is most of them.

Come back the next day, wet that app tape, and remove. 24 hours curing time makes all the difference. Problem solved, as long as you can get back. It works for us and we've done a lot. A lot also depends on if it's exterior frosting, or interior, where the adhesive gets seen from the back...

You can download the service manual- it's about 792 pages, and maybe 32 meg.

Here's another little known secret... you can use a hot-air gun to warm up and rejuvenate size that seems a bit too dry- to get it to work briefly again...

No, Onyx is a powerful RIP with options. You need separate design software. eg Corel Draw... Onyx Postershop is about a 1.2 gig download with 30 days full functionability. Try it. I've not tried to plot to cropmarks- our latex printer and our plotter are different machines. Nesting: yes, there's...

The Lazy way, and professional way are not equal. Do it right, or not at all. So you want accuracy or wobbles? If you want to vectorise the shape and cut it on the plotter, then you have to accurately get the shape into your plotting program. There's only one way, and that is manually entered...

Maybe it works on a 32 bit older system, and the newer system you've loaded it on is 64 bit. I've had that difference create havoc with some software...

Thanks for the reply, Doug. 'Not worth fixing' is relative to a lot of things. I was given a 25500 that the previous owners were quoted $5k repair bill for. A tech bloke told me he'd steer me through repairing it myself, if I had two days spare, and $400 for parts... At the moment I use it...