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I have moved maybe 20 printers with the ink still inside. Just make sure you take the waste bottle out and shove some paper towels up there and tape it. This will prevent any little leaks that may happen. Other than that just move it like you normally would. Make sure the head is locked down...

I know a lot of my customers cover the sensor with tape but you can also adjust the sensor in the service mode. As stated above, the material is just buckling up and letting light into the sensor. Unfortunately, you can't restart a print after this error because the printer technically won't...

It could also be a bad print head cable, trailing cables and/or a bad board but in my experience it's almost always the head. I usually change the head cables to rule that out and then change the head if that doesn't work. Once in a great while it end up being a bad head board or main board but...

It's possible that the print feed calibration is being affected by the take up reel. Try loading the media and attach it to the take up reel and then run your print feed calibration.

Right next to the RIP and Print button there should be another button that looks like a blade. That should just cut your design. Some versions of Flexi don't have that feature so it might just not be there for you but I would assume it's in the print and cut version.

Looks good to me!

Have you tried all of Mimaki's profiles? I would think out of about 100 of the ones they provide one should work properly. I generally get good results with the 3m profiles.

That looks pretty bad. As 2B said, you might be able to recover the head by soaking and flushing but that looks like it is too far gone to get back 100%.

I have always been an Intel guy as well but I didn't realize the Ryzen series was so cheap already. That is probably the better way to go bang for buck wise.

You could find an Intel i7 processor for less than $300 but you could probably get away with an i5 and save some cash. If you can find the RAM for cheap you might as well go big but as you said, 16GB should be just fine for illy. Surprisingly no RIP software that I know of has a video card...

If it started after you changed the head it could be the head is not seated properly. It could also be a bad head cable. I would clean the encoder strip to rule that out and then take a good look at the head to see if it is actually parallel with the platen. Then I would check the head cable for...

The JV150 and CJV30 use different heads so the drops are laid down differently which affects color. Boxed profiles are a cheap way to get started but if you want complete control of the color output on your machine you have to make your own. Most the time they take the old profiles and tweek...

Maybe the Y origin sensor is not reading properly? It should be able to find the home position if the Y origin sensor is working properly.

Static issues tend to start showing up around this time of year. Check out your environment to make sure the temperature and humidity are within spec for the printer. Low humidity will cause static issues which get worse with the cold dry winter air. Wiping the platen down with a fabric softener...

Yes, all lifetime errors are just timers that go off no matter the condition of the part. Just so you know, I have worked on Mutohs for almost 10 years and not once has a CR motor gone bad. I have even had some customers force me to change the motor because they thought that would fix their...

If it's anything like the encoders in solvent machines, alcohol should be fine. I wouldn't use denatured alcohol but would use the regular 70% isopropyl stuff.

Do you know if you have to heat press this like dye sub?

The head heat error usually means there is a short in the head cables or even the head itself. I usually start by changing the cables as they are the cheapest part. If the cables don't fix it, unfortunately it is usually just a bad head. Sometimes ink splatters up on the head cable terminals and...

It's not worth it to change the cover. I priced one out the other day for a customer and it was around $250. Just cut off any plastic that may be getting in the way of reinstalling the tray and forget about it.

The industry standard on print heads is not to warranty them if an end user installs them. Too many factors to go wrong. As stated above, I would be more concerned with why the head failed so soon. Bad ink? Bad maintenance parts? Head strikes? As someone who sells print heads, it is extremely...