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Yeah, you're going to need some sort of blockout layer. The sun will shine right through the white ink making both sides visible if you don't have one.
I'd do color/white/black/white/color. The additional black layer will prevent most if not all of the sunlight from coming through. This would...
Definitely try just white ink. I just made a plaque with a 10% white fill, and it gave a very nice frosted effect. It's not sparkly like frosted/dusted crystal vinyl, but it looks cool. I did this with our UV printer, which has white ink that is much more opaque than our solvent printer; so...
I think the best processor bang for your buck right now is AMD. You could snag a Ryzen 1700X for less than $300, although "they" say a 1700 is an even better deal since it can easily be overclocked to match the 1700X.
As far as a graphics card, I'd recommend an NVIDIA 1050 Ti. I have one in my...
+1 to that. To be specific, I use their UV-AP3155 adhesion promoter diluted with 99% isopropyl alcohol. That stuff is supposed to work for nearly everything, but I mainly use it for acrylics.
I haven't seen anything marketed as not warping - the only specialty print acrylic I know of is designed for better adhesion.
I've had problems with the sheets being warped from the supplier, but rarely from the actual printing process. The advantage of a true flatbed is you can tape the edges...
Do you have white ink on your flatbed? You could try a partial white fill to simulate the frosted effect. I'd suggest printing samples with a few different percentages to see what looks the best.
Yup, those are R8 collets. If your router takes R8 collets they'll fit. There are many different collet types - ER & R8 are fairly common types. Check your CNC specs to see what it will take.
Does it just stop when the head is moving up/down? Does the controller display the same error code (E.EstoP) when the head crash bars are activated? It could be a bad connection to the crash bar switches that is caused by the vertical movement.
If you have a cloud-licensed version of Flexi, you have to remove the license from the computer it is currently on. Then you have to go to saicloud.com and download the license for the new computer. If you have a dongle, all you need is the activation key, and the dongle provides the license.
Try a digital print ACM such as MaxMetal DP from Grimco. I've had good success printing on that with our CET.
Also, Agfa/Pitman has several different ACM types available. I think Alumaboard Fast is the one that I had tried that had the same adhesion as MaxMetal DP.
I don't know where the transparent part comes in if you're going from green to black, but the grey comes from trying to do a gradient between two spot colors. Try converting both of your colors to RGB or CMYK, and the grey should go away.
If you need to fade between two spot colors, the best...
Ultraboard is available in W/B/W or W/B/B in various thicknesses. It has polystyrene faces, so I'm not sure how it would perform when laser cut. Pitman also has their Duratex brand foamboard available in W/B/W colors as well. I think that has paper faces.
I can second the Epson S80600 for a very bright orange. I don't know how it compares to a true fluorescent orange, but I know we can match Gerber 220 Bright Orange vinyl with it. Of course, that doesn't help much if you want fluorescent green, though.
Wow, that's not good. We have 2 S80600 printers, and we haven't had any issues like this. We run 6 pass normally, and there is no banding on IJ-180 vinyl. Even on 4-pass, we can get usable prints with very little banding.
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