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Try Simple Green cleaner. I use a 80/20 isopropyl alcohol to Simple Green to clean the table of our flatbed printer, and it really attacks our UV ink.

Try changing your cut quality to Accurate (iPC) or High Quality (XL-Guide). It's under System Options in XL-Guide or Production Setup in iPC. This will change the machine's acceleration settings to make positioning more accurate. I've found this to make a big difference with the kiss-cut tool...

I bought some cheap $9 carbide bits from sign-in-china.com so I wouldn't feel as bad throwing them away so soon. They last just as long as a $30 USA made bit. I route Alupanel and Maxmetal DP, and haven't really noticed a difference between the two. 2CT Media - where do you buy the Huhao bits...

Check out Astute Graphics' plugins. The Space Fill feature in ColliderScribe would do what you want, I think. How to use the Space Fill Feature in ColliderScribe 2 - Astute Graphics

It really depends which two printers you're comparing. Latex has a reputation for being grainy, so a new UV printer could be as good or better than that. However, new solvent printers can be nearly photo quality. Another big difference is the number of ink colors you have. Light inks make a big...

All of our designers have 2 - 27" 1920x1080 monitors. Lately, I've been getting ones with IPS panels, but most are still using standard LCD monitors. I personally wish for 16:10 monitors, but the 30" Dell UltraSharp is crazy expensive. Replacing my monitors with 2 of them would cost nearly...

A R2R or hybrid UV printer would be great for cheap banners and interior vinyl (or other roll stock) items. Printing roll stock on a flatbed can be a pain.

Could be 1/8" PVC. I know Duratex and Ex-cel PVC sheets are available in 3mm W/B/B or W/B/W.

Our CET Q5-1000 (5'x10' flatbed) will print a 4'x8' sheet at production (6 pass) speeds in around 10 minutes. So in just a 4'x8' area, we could fit 2 of your 40 pc jigs to make 80 pieces every 15 minutes (accounting for load/unload times, etc.). Plus, I can bump the passes down to 4, or even 3...

No photoshop settings will make it print faster. Buy a bigger printer, or install more print heads in yours. Even a printer identical to yours except having a 4x8 bed will produce more pieces per hour. The amount of time spent moving the gantry is more than the amount of time spent moving the...

We have the Q5-1000 (5x10 flatbed). When we bought it nearly 2 years ago, there wasn't really anything that competed with it in price vs features. Things have changed slightly since then, but it's still a good printer for the money.

Pitman has their Duratex banner in 126" rolls. Their 13 oz is around $0.14/sq.ft. last time I ordered.

If you want more scratch resistance, try some adhesion promoter. I use Supply55 AP3155 with good results. Also, you could try digital acrylic - it is supposed to have better adhesion than regular acrylic. If you are having problems with small pieces of acrylic slipping while printing, make sure...

IMO, varnish (clear ink) is a waste of time.White ink can be used for practical purposes like printing on colored substrates, but varnish is solely decorative from what I can tell. I've also heard that it is even more of a pain to maintain than white ink. Also, IMO, the Mimaki is not in the...

I've used 3155 on acrylic, and it works as advertised. Never tried it or 2155 on coroplast, though.

Our dealer actually switched a brand new printer back to the 96 series ink because the Mosaic white ink was too yellow. This was several months ago, and since then they have changed the white formulation to make a whiter ink - even whiter than the 96 series from what I've seen. I'm getting some...

The Lo-1 setting on the manometer controls the maximum negative pressure. When the pressure goes lower, the negative pressure pump cuts off to prevent ink being drawn back through the tubes from the heads into the negative pressure tank (which you drained of ink already). So if your pressure...

:goodpost: I don't have a laser, but I wouldn't be afraid to try it. However, I think my flatbed cutter would do a better job. Did you even google "laser cut coroplast"? That's where most of my knowledge comes from... Here's a link to a pdf with details about laser cutting & engraving...

Coroplast (the brand name and I suppose most generics) is corrugated polypropylene. PVC is what damages lasers (and the operators), since it releases chlorine gas.

Yes, it has CMYK, light CMK, orange, and red, plus white or silver. We have two of them and we love the color gamut! All inks have expiration dates, even if the printer doesn't know or care about them. I think the Epson inks expire 2 years after manufacture (at least, there are 2 dates on the...